Essential Garden Tools

It is often difficult for the beginner gardener to know what tools to buy. There is a vast array available and they don't come cheaply. Tools are a long term investment so should be selected with care. Every gardener has their favourite, "couldn't live without" tools, and experienced gardeners are the best source of advice. Always handle tools before purchase and "try them for size". Look for a tool that feels comfortable in the hands, is a suitable weight, is an appropriate length and is well-balanced. Choose a good, well-respected brand, maintain the tool well, and it could last longer than you do!

The following is my personal list of "essentials":

1. Spade - This is the tool I use most often. I use it for digging, chopping, lifting and edging. Make sure your foot fits comfortably on the spade because this determines how much pressure you can apply when digging. A sharp edged spade is a powerful tool for severing roots and dividing large clumps of perennials.  

2. Fork - This tool is used for breaking up the soil prior to planting. Once again it needs to accommodate your foot comfortably. A fork can also be used for aerating the lawn, turning the compost heap and spreading materials like leaf mould and pea straw. Tines should be kept clean and sharp.  

3. Pick - Though not used often in my garden, the pick is still an essential tool for those tough jobs. Without a pick, removal of tree stumps and large roots is very difficult. Because a pick is swung over the head, it can be driven in deeply. The stout handle then provides the necessary leverage.  

4. Rake - A rake is essential for tidying leaves and lawn clippings. I also reverse mine and use it for carrying bundles of clippings, etc.  

5. Secateurs - A pair of top quality secateurs is a great investment if you can trust yourself not to lose them, (I have been through more pairs than I care to remember), otherwise choose a middle-of-the-road pair. They are essential for pruning and harvesting fruits, flowers and some vegies. I also have a pair of heavy duty, long-handled secateurs that I would not be without. If you like to shape plants then you will also need some hedge clippers .  

6. Pruning Saw - There are many pruning jobs that are too tough for the secateurs and these require a saw. Keeping the blade clean and well-sharpened, will make using this tool much easier.  

7. Trowel - A hand trowel is necessary for small planting jobs, weeding, mixing and fertilising. This is another tool that I frequently misplace. My solution has been to buy a bright yellow all metal model which, for several years now, has resisted all my attempts to lose it.  

8. Knife - An old kitchen knife ranks as one of my essential tools. It makes the division of punnets of seedlings a breeze.  

There are new tools coming on to the market all the time and you may well find that some of these suit your purposes very well. The above list represents the very basics, but they allow most jobs to be achieved.

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No-Dig Gardening

The concept of no-dig gardens has been around since it was first promoted by Ester Deans in 1977. To make a no-dig garden, begin first of all with a very thick layer of newspaper - a thickness of at least twenty sheets interleaved to prevent weeds from making their way up through the garden. You can begin straight on top of grass, weeds or even concrete.

It is necessary to create borders of some kind around the garden to keep the layered material in place. This may be boards, blocks or bricks. One solution is to use inexpensive foam troughs to make a square with the troughs as the borders. The square within the troughs becomes the no-dig garden. The troughs are filled with potting mix and planted too. Another three troughs can be added on to make another square garden and so on.

The recommended material is spoiled lucerne hay, though grass hay, stable straw and pea straw are also OK. In addition to the straw you will need some good organic fertiliser eg pelletised cow manure, blood & bone, Dynamic Lifter. You will also need some compost. Hopefully you will already have a compost bin making use of kitchen waste, leaves and lawn clippings. (If you have someone come to mow the lawn, always get them to put the clippings in the compost bin. Don't have them taken away!)

Soak the thick layers of paper that form the base and put a thick layer of straw on top. Sprinkle the straw with the fertiliser and water well. Add more layers of straw and fertiliser in this way until the desired thickness is achieved. Cover the entire bed with compost so that the straw is hidden. For best results, germinate seeds in small pots and transplant them into wells of compost in the layered material. When transplanting seedlings, keep as much of the seed-raising mixture around the roots as possible.

Another important thing to remember is to locate your no-dig garden in a spot sheltered from wind. The roots of plants grown by this technique do not anchor the plants as effectively as they do in a normal garden, so they are more easily blown over.

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How to Move a Large Shrub or Tree

Most plants can be moved successfully provided that you are able to dig out a large enough (specifically wide enough) root ball. This can be very hard to do if the tree is large because a sufficiently large enough root ball may need to be lifted mechanically - with a crane or some such.

Some plants are easier to move than others. Those with a fibrous root system are generally easier to move. Camellias, azaleas, deciduous trees and palms can generally be transplanted relatively easily. Some plants will resent the disruption to their roots and the change of location and will die. Moving trees is always a bit of a gamble, so choosing the correct location in the first place is the best policy. (When you plant trees and large shrubs, always take into consideration the possibility of future renovations or extensions to your home.)

If you have time on your side, then there are things you can do that can increase the likelihood of successfully moving a plant.

Root Pruning

Firstly, decide on the diameter of the root-ball that you can realistically hope to move. Mark a circle around the plant at this point. (A can of spray paint is quite useful.) Then draw a concentric circle about 30cm further out. Divide this circular band into 6 or 8 sections depending on its size. Using a very sharp spade, dig out each alternate section to a depth of about 30cm severing all the roots. Cut some pieces of heavy plastic and line the inner edges of the sections, leaving the plastic exposed a few centimetres above soil level. Fill the soil back in. Water well and apply seaweed solution. Eight weeks later, repeat the process with the remainder of the sections. This should be done 6-8 weeks before the plant is moved. This process is designed to stimulate a whole lot of new roots closer to the trunk so that transplant shock will be reduced.

Moving the Plant

Make sure that you prepare the planting hole well before digging up the tree. Read the section above called "How to Plant a Tree". Preferably choose a mild cloudy day. Water the plant very deeply and well the day prior to transplanting. Dig the soil out from the circular band. Dig down on one side, severing roots as you go. Slip some very heavy duty plastic under the root ball. Dig down from the other side until all the roots have been cut. Tip the tree gently to the side and pull the plastic through under the rootball . Pull the plastic up and tie it around the trunk like a large plum pudding,

Replanting

Move the tree into position in the planting hole without delay. Don't lift it by the trunk, but call in all the troops to help lift it by the root ball. Undo the plastic and tip the tree to one side to slide the plastic down as far as possible, then tip it to the other side and gently tug the plastic away and out of the hole. Check to see that the tree trunk is perpendicular to the ground - check from all angles. Backfill, firming the soil with your hands as you go. Water the whole area (not just the planting hole) very well immediately. Do not apply fertiliser but an application of Seasol at this time may help to stimulate root growth and reduce transplant shock. Cover the area with mulch, taking care to keep it well clear of the trunk. Water diligently for the first season after transplanting.

Timing

Transplant deciduous trees in winter. For other trees the best time to transplant is in spring, or failing that, autumn. Try not to transplant in the height of summer. It was once considered a good idea to prune back at transplanting, but this is no longer regarded as good practice.

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Taking cuttings is a great way for home gardeners to increase the number of plants they have, or to add new plants to the garden from cuttings provided by gardening friends and relations - and occasionally from stolen snips hanging over footpaths, but we won’t go into that!

There are many factors involved in getting cuttings to root. In fact it is a highly complex chemical process on which even the experts do not agree and in many instances the processes are still not fully understood. However there are some generally agreed principles and some basic procedures that gardeners can follow that should increase the strike rate of their cuttings in most instances.

Cuttings are able to form roots because every plant cell contains all the genetic information needed to reconstruct all plant parts. This characteristic is called totipotency. Because of this, plants that are propagated by cuttings are generally perfect genetic replicas of the plants from which the cuttings were taken. This is why you can be sure of flower colour, leaf shape, etc. with a plant grown from a cutting, whereas a plant grown from collected seed is a product of genetic input from male and female plant parts and is a whole new roll of the genetic dice. The other thing that is generally agreed, and that gardeners know from experience, is that the ease of striking cuttings depends on the species or cultivar used i.e. it is genetically determined.

Depending on the type of plant, hardwood, semi-hardwood or softwood cuttings may strike more easily, and some kinds of cuttings are best taken at specific times of the year. A typical cutting is about pencil thickness with three or four leaves or leaf buds (nodes). Cut just below a leaf node and remove any leaves that would be below the soil surface when planted. Some plants can be propagated by taking leaf, leaf-bud or root cuttings. This is where a good general gardening textbook is invaluable to tell you the most suitable procedure for the particular plant you want to propagate.

However there are some general procedures that will increase the strike rate for cuttings in many instances.

1. Preventing the cuttings from drying out is important. After the first couple of days the cuttings will cease to take up any water through their stems. We need to keep the relative humidity around the cutting about the same as inside the cutting so that it does not lose any water, but maintains enough for the chemical processes going on inside. This is why we enclose a pot containing cuttings inside a plastic bag; put it under a plastic cover e.g. the end of a softdrink bottle; put it in a greenhouse or propagator; or if we are really sophisticated, in a fog house.

2. The information above also explains why it is desirable to take cuttings from a plant that is not under stress. Make sure the parent plant has been well watered in the period before you take your cuttings.

3. The closer a branch is to the base of a plant and the closer it is to the trunk, the more "juvenile" the plant material is said to be. As a general rule, the more juvenile the plant material, the easier cuttings taken from it will form roots.

4. Most cuttings develop roots more quickly if the ends of the cuttings are dipped in a growth regulator called auxin. The most commonly used is IBA and this can be bought as a powder (rooting powder) or used as a solution or gel. Use only as directed, as excessive application will damage the emerging roots.

5. Light shade is best for most cuttings.

6. The best propagating medium is one that allows plenty of oxygen to enter, while keeping the soil around the emerging roots damp, so a mixture of coarse sand and peat moss is generally best.

7. Many cuttings root more easily if the propagating medium is kept warm. Many nurseries bottom heat their propagating trays, but only until the roots begin to emerge, otherwise there is too much root growth at the expense of shoot growth. At home this bottom heat can sometimes be created by sitting the tray on the top of a fridge (a heater is too hot & dry).

8. Cuttings do not require fertiliser to form roots. Only fertilise once the roots are formed.

9. Cuttings are very susceptible to fungal and disease attack and hygiene is important. Disinfect pots, secateurs and hands before propagating and keep bagged propagating medium sealed up.

While most gardeners propagate cuttings with some success on a "hit and miss" basis, keeping the information above in mind should increase the strike rate considerably.

CHECKLIST

1. Take cuttings at the right time.
2. Water plants before taking cuttings.
3. Cut stems just below a leaf node.
4. Use rooting powder/solution/gel.
5. Use clean pots and secateurs.
6. Use light textured propagating mix.
7. Put cuttings in a warm area in light shade.
8. Don't let cuttings dry out.

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Plant Division

Division is one of the easiest ways of multiplying your plants. Many plants lend themselves to division and for those plants that have a period of winter dormancy, winter is a good time to divide them and create new plants. For most other plants, spring is an appropriate time for division.

Plants that are suitable for division include many of the monocots that grow in clumps. Examples include agapanthus, clivia, bearded irises, aristea, dianella and the ornamental grasses. Many herbaceous perennials can also be easily divided. Gazanias, gerberas, ajuga, shasta daisies, caladiums, calathea, acanthus (see right) and strelitzia are all suitable. Orchids, ferns and many of the creeping herbs such as thyme, mint and oregano can also be successfully divided. Not only does division create many new plants from the original, but dividing plants often rejuvenates the parent plant too, by removing old spent plant material and reducing root congestion so that the plant can have better access to water and nutrients.

To divide large clumping plants, you need a sharp spade. You can choose to dig out the entire clump and divide it, or simply remove portions of the plant from the outer edges. If the plant is looking moribund at the centre, then dig the whole plant up and replace it with new fresh pieces from the outer edges. If the parent plant is quite vigorous and healthy, you may opt to just remove a portion of it by taking a "cake slice" of the clump with the spade and filling the resulting gap with fresh organically enriched soil. This space will soon be colonised with new roots and new shoots. Separate any severed or old roots gently from the divided piece. It will be obvious how many potential plants can be separated out - each piece needs a good root and a good shoot. Use a sharp knife or secateurs to separate the pieces ready for replanting.

When you dig up a clump, you can gently hose off the soil if you wish to, so that you can see what you are doing more easily, but do not allow the roots to dry out. Work quickly and replant the divided pieces as soon as possible. The pieces to choose for replanting are those that have nice healthy-looking fleshy roots and a healthy-looking leaf, shoot or node. If the roots are too long to fit in your new planting hole, then trim them back. Never bend or coil roots. Trimming will stimulate new root growth. Discard any old, tired-looking pieces of plant.

The easiest plants of all to divide are those that send out stolons which are long runners which form new plants at the ends. Strawberries and spider plant do this. The new plants are very easily divided from the parent and planted out. Some plants send up suckers and these too can often be separated from the parent plant with a sharp spade and replanted elsewhere.

When you divide your plants you multiply them minus the cost - and that's the sum of it!

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Possums are protected in Australia. They are very pretty, appealing creatures but they can cause havoc in gardens and in homes. Possums eat a wide range of vegetation including flower buds (especially roses), leaves, fruit and vegetables. Deterring them in a way that does not harm them is a major challenge.

It is important to understand a few things about possum behavior. Firstly, possums are highly territorial. They will fight other possums aggressively to maintain their supremacy in a particular area. When people trap possums and transport them to bush areas and release them, they are sentencing them to almost certain death. Wildlife studies of released possums have revealed a 100% mortality rate. For those who value wildlife, trapping and releasing them elsewhere is not an acceptable option.

There are no easy solutions. Providing alternative nesting places to your ceiling is one option. Ringtail Possums generally prefer to nest in trees anyway, so providing a thick thicket somewhere in a quiet part of the garden where the possum can build his large nest of twigs and leaves is a good move. He/she will keep other possums at bay. Brushtail Possums are more of a problem because they prefer to nest in tree hollows. Few domestic gardens have trees old enough to have nesting hollows, so the next best option is your roof. Make sure that your roof space is tightly sealed. Possums can manage to get in through quite amazingly small spaces. If you provide a nesting box high up in a tree, they may make this their home & leave the roof alone. Once again, they will protect the garden from other possums encroaching on their domain.

Keeping possums out of the house is one thing: stopping them from eating up your precious plants is another. Unfortunately possums seem to be much like humans. What one finds repulsive, another will not be bothered by. The following are a number of potential repellents, but you may have to use trial and error to discover what works for you (or more to the point, your resident possums.)

Quassia Chips
Quassia amara is a South American shrub. The wood contains an extremely bitter substance that many possums do not like. Quassia chips can be bought from some chemists and nurseries. Boil up about 25g in a litre of water for 30 minutes and allow to cool. Dilute one part in three with water before spraying. The spray will also kill off some bugs such as aphids so that is an added bonus. Don't spray it on food crops less than a week before you consume it.

Chilli
Chilli works in a similar way to quassia. The chilli makes plants unattractive and unpalatable to some possums. Mist the target plants lightly and then sprinkle with chilli powder. Remember that chilli powder is potent stuff and it is extremely painful if you get it in your eyes. Don't use it where children play. You can also make a spray by placing a cupful of dried chillies in 1 litre of warm water in a blender and processing. Allow it to stand for several hours then strain and dilute with equal parts of water. Do not allow the spray to come in contact with eyes or skin.

Camphor
Many possums don't like the smell of camphor. Crush a block of camphor and mix it with vaseline. This can be smeared along favourite possum tracks eg along fences where they access rose buds etc. Blocks of camphor can also be put in roof spaces.

Commercial Preparations
Scat produced by Multicrop contains substances that both taste and smell offensive to animals including possums.
D-Ter is an animal and bird repellent.
Poss-Off by Beat-A-Bug contains bitter tasting and offensive smelling ingredients to deter possums. It also contains plant food.

Electronic Device
Shuroo Australia's Stray Ban is a computerised speaker device which emits a rotating ultrasonic frequency inaudible to humans but annoying to possums.

Alternative food sources
Another option is to grow some foods in your garden especially for the possums. They particularly like young eucalyptus leaves and growing eucalypts that can be coppiced (ie cut to the ground) every few years will provide a tasty food source. Suitable species are Eucalyptus pulverulenta (Silver-leaved Mountain Gum), E. crenulata (Silver Gum) and E. radiata (Narrow-leaved Peppermint). Possums also like nectar-filled flowers of native plants such as grevilleas. You could also consider providing them with fruit scraps to reduce their appetites somewhat.

Illustration: 
This baby ringtail was rescued from a cat and was successfully returned to its mother after she was enticed with a cinnamon-coated apple to return to where the baby was left in the fork of a tree. An unusually happy ending!

Hanging baskets are a great way to make use of the vertical plane in the garden. They can be suspended from pergolas, decks, patios and verandahs. Half baskets can be attached to walls and fences. They make excellent use of limited space and can enhance the sub-canopy area in a treed garden, where tree roots may make other plantings difficult..

Growing plants in hanging baskets represents greater challenges than other types of container gardening. Hanging baskets are very susceptible to drying out, especially on windy days. They are often hung from pergolas, eaves or rafters where there is little or no access to natural rainfall and often quite a deal of shade. Choose a good quality, moisture-retentive potting mix (with added peat or coir) and perhaps enhance it with water storing crystals. Water regularly so that the potting mix does not dry out. Adding a soil wetting agent such as Saturaid to the mix is also a good idea. (Some potting mixes already contain soil wetters, but you will need to add more each year.)

Plants with a trailing habit look particularly effective in hanging baskets while those with an erect form look out of place. Some plants such as impatiens, lobelia and fuchsias look fabulous but you must be vigilant with watering. A long handled watering wand with an on/off button is the best way to keep baskets watered. If a basket becomes completely dried out, take it down and submerge it in a laundry tub until it is completely rehydrated.

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